MyFloridaCode.com

Ken,
 
You are getting some pretty good advise, and I think Eric, of course, being  
our unofficial Architect of Record, gave us a good reality check on this type 
of  alterations and repairs project.
 
My opinion excludes synthetic stucco over EIF's or fiberboard. That is a  
completely different scenario. Give us some more information about the  building 
in question. 
 
One way to minimize the potential for cracking the stucco as well as  
precluding  the necessity of penetration of the stucco, and more  importantly, the 
moisture and/or vapor barrier, is to make the deck totally  self-supporting by 
adding vertical ( 6" X 6" Posts, or c.m.u., which could both  be stuccoed to 
match the existing ) at all 4 corners (and assuming your  deck can be supported 
at it's corners).
 
If you have a c.m.u. wall, that would be easy to do, but keep some caulk  
handy for resolving the aesthetic value of the probable hair line cracks  
appearing where the stucco column meets, but is not "tied" to the  building.
 
If structurally advised, Eric can probably tell us where and how to place  
just a couple or a few specified bolts through the posts, penetrating the  
building if absolutely necessary??
Let us know if you have a c.m.u. wall, frame with wire lath, or synthetic  
stucco over ???.
 
Good luck Ken,
 
Paul
 
Building & Zoning Code Violation Resolutions
W. Paul Myrick, Pres.,CEO, CBC, BBA 
Florida Certified  Design-Build Contractor  CBC023304                         
               
William Paul Myrick Properties Incorporated
192 Ivy Lakes Drive, St.  Johns, Florida 32259
Phone & Fax Number: (904) 829-6829
Nextel: 838-2398 Direct Connect:160+34+1064 R

Respond via email: _wpmyrick at aol.com_ (mailto:wpmyrick at aol.com) 


 
In a message dated 1/19/2009 11:41:27 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
kuritzky at bellsouth.net writes:

There is  no simple answer.

Money is the ultimate answer.  Because, to do it  right will require money,
and skill.

Stucco on what? 
Frame?  
Block? 
What kind of sheathing (if frame) is under all  this?

Remember, if the system is solid, and doesn't leak now, anything  you do to
it will increase the possibility of a failure.

And  caulking is not the answer to anything.

Leaving the stucco in place may  very well be the best approach.

There are a sufficient quantity of  anchors available to secure the ledger
through the stucco.  No matter  how you look at it, you're putting holes in
the system; either through the  stucco, or through the ledger.  And the holes
go all the way into the  structure.

If you peel off the stucco, you create at least two flashing  conditions, AND
have broken the existing water-proof barrier.  You'll  need to flash the top
of the ledger, and the bottom.  The ledger,  wood, then becomes the barrier
to whatever is left behind the  stucco.

And frankly, it could very well be a code problem.  It's  both structural and
water intrusion related.

Anyway, good luck with  it.  Each problem is unique, and even with more
information, this  group will probably come up with several good ways to
attend to  this.

Eric D. Kuritzky, Architect, CBO
Orlando


On 1/19/09  11:13 PM, "Chandler Knowles" <chandlerknowles at att.net>  wrote:

> What kind of stucco?  Cementicious?  EIFS?   How thick?
> 
> You are indeed correct that the proper flashing  will be the key which ever
> way you go.
> 
> Chandler  Knowles
> Pensacola, FL
> 
> ----- Original Message  -----
> From: "Ken Rodgers" <Ken at artisanbilt.com>
> To:  <codetalk at myfloridacode.com>
> Sent: Monday, January 19, 2009 9:02  PM
> Subject: [Florida Code Talk] Attaching Deck to Stucco
>  
> 
>> All,
>> 
>>  I know this is not  really a code question (unless someone has a code
>> reference that  applies) but I would still appreciate your expert opinions
>>  on
>> the subject.  I was asked to give a bid on building a  second story deck to
>> a
>> house with stucco  covering.  Based on research and my own inclinations, I
>> feel  it would be best to remove the stucco where the ledger board will  be
>> so
>> it (the ledger board) can attach directly to the  structural members of the
>> house (e.g. - floor trusses).  It  seems to me that leaving the stucco in
>> between the two would not  be as structurally sound since it could compress
>> over time and  with movement of the wood and make for a loose joint.  It
>>  could also cause stresses and cracks in the stucco.  Obviously,  proper
>> flashing will be a key factor in either case.  Any  opinions, experiences,
>> etc are appreciated.
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> Ken
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Ken Rodgers
>> 
>> ArtisanBilt  Construction

 
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